CARDONESS

MANY OF Kirkcudbright’s visitors have enjoyed exploring nearby Cardoness Castle on the A75 near Gatehouse of Fleet.

While the Castle is a fine example of a 15th century round tower, well worth a visit, there is another attraction close by not mentioned by any guidebooks. Equally fascinating, perhaps even more intriguing for being secret, it can be found by walking along Cardoness Shore.

It was during the outings she made with her children that Amy Smith, from Kirkcudbright, discovered the enchanting little church, or prayer house, set on top of a rocky outcrop.

When Amy’s children were growing up in Kirkcudbright a great treat for them was to spend the day at Cardoness Shore. With the addition of various neighbours’ offspring the number of children with her often reached 13 in total. Armed with a plentiful supply of loaves of bread, butter and pots of jam, Amy shepherded her tribe onto a bus, which set them down on the roadside, not far from Cardoness Castle

"Looking back," says Amy, "I wonder how I coped. But, it was easier in those days. The older children looked after the littler ones, sorting out any squabbles and they were perfectly content to play for the whole day on the beach – as long as I had plenty of bread and jam to keep them going."

Finding the prayer house involves a short, enjoyable stroll along the shore starting at the lay-by - not far from the Castle - where there is a snack bar. The tempting aroma of bacon rolls (the best for miles around) wafts from the small cabin. Something to look forward to on return from your explorations. From here, go down to the beach and turn right.

Keep walking – through the reeds, across a small river, along the sand – until you find it. Built as a ‘sanctuary for prayer and contemplation’ in 1768 by Sir David Maxwell of Cardoness, it must be one of the tiniest ‘churches’ ever constructed.

Its weathered stone blends with the surrounding rocks and trees. In years gone by there were stained glass windows but they had to be removed when vandals damaged them. Instead, plain wooden shutters can be opened, allowing light to flood the cool, dim interior.

A colourful Noah’s Ark mural is painted on the walls below the roof. One wall is covered with a patchwork wall hanging. Vases of fresh flowers are regularly placed in corners and there is a special shelf for children to decorate. ‘Make Me Pretty’ says the sign above it. Children have complied with great enthusiasm. The tiny space is crammed with an ever-changing display of treasures from the beach – shells and pebbles, an iridescent seagull feather, dried seaweed, wild flowers.

The view from the church is superb. One can’t help but stand and stare and admire. The roar of the traffic from the nearby, busy A75 Euroroute fades away, replaced by the sound of the waves, the wind in the trees and the call of the birds. For bird watchers there is plenty to see. Apart from several species of gull there are shellduck, red-legged oyster catchers strutting at the water’s edge and the distinctive ‘dookie divers’ making their way to and from their feeding areas.

The sandy shoreline meets the lush green of Galloway’s fertile fields, sweeping up to where the rolling hills – sometimes golden with broom – meet the skyline. Even on the dullest day, every detail is etched sharply by the wonderful light that tempts so many artists to capture on canvas the Kirkcudbrightshire’s landscapes.

IN MEMORY of the late wife of the present Mr Hannay, a plaque on a wall proclaims: "She Loved This Place." Even without the plaque, there is something in the atmosphere that tells us this little sanctuary has been a much loved and cherished place.

Amy Smith was delighted when in 1965, Mr and Mrs Hannay organised the first beach service on the stretch of shore immediately below the church. "The first services were arranged mainly for visitors staying in the Cardoness Caravan Park, overlooking the shore," explains, Amy, "but they were equally – if not more – popular with local people."

Now, the annual service (held on a Sunday in August) attracts upwards of three hundred worshippers from local towns such as Gatehouse and Kirkcudbright. Amy says, "There is something very special about singing hymns of praise in such a beautiful place."

As we head at break-neck speed towards the 21st century, times for quiet reflection, for giving thanks – or simply for experiencing a sense of wonder at the beauty around us – are becoming increasingly hard to find. By building the tiny prayer house on the shore at Cardoness more than two hundred years ago, Sir David Maxwell gave us all the chance to take a few moments to share a feeling of peace and joy.

Mary Dunlop
21 August 1999